As a retailer and local guy, you'd think that we'd be able to keep up with all the new winery projects going on in the works. But alas, it is nearly impossible to keep up and we reserve our visits and "closer inspections" to what we think is the real serious stuff. Projects like Futo, Seven Stones, Ovid and others that are pulling out all the stops, going for a true long-term "estate" approach and not releasing anything that doesn't make the cut. These are the kind of projects we love.
Indeed, ARKENSTONE is such a place. If the name rings a bell deep in your subconscious, just reflect back to the last time you read The Hobbit. Perched on a ridge off of White Cottage Road on Howell Mountain, Arkenstone is roughly 14 acres of unforgiving rock with a little bit of dirt for the vines to call home. This project is so committed to excellence, the vines were planted some 10 years ago and are just now being seen as mature enough to produce the kind of grapes they want to create a very high level of complexity in the finished wine. It is planted to Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, PV, and a tiny bit of Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc (which do incredibly well)!
Sam Kaplan (below)
The winemaker and overseer of all things Arkenstone is Sam Kaplan, along with owners Ron and Susan Krausz, longtime St. Helena residents, local heroes and "just plain good people". Quality is everything with these three. This project has been in the works for a decade, and while they probably could've released some wine before this, they just didn't want to come out with anything but their best.
The winery, entirely gravity fed and mostly underground in some of the Valley's largest cave dimensions, is breathtaking in scope and technology and functionality without being ostentatious. State-of-the-art.
But as I said above, its all about the wines at the end of the day. Arkenstone makes three main wines (and possibly a little secret batch here and there in the future...) - Obsidian (Cabernet Blend), Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc, all estate. They are not released yet, but we hope to be able to offer them to you in the near future....keep an eye out!
THE WINES: The SB is in my opinion destined to be one of Napa's very best. "Brilliant" is the best word...ultra-clean, laser sharp, richly flavored but not flabby in any way, crisp and mouth-watering, crazily drinkable.
The Syrah is one of those that walks a fine line between the Northern Rhone and classic Napa. Probably leaning just slightly to Napa, it is wonderfully balanced and rich, with just enough earth, black licorice, olive and pepper to remind you that this is Syrah and nothing else but. It is a treat for those that appreciate the grape and will live many years.
The 2006 Cabernet blend, Obsidian, that we tasted is remarkably one of the smoothest, silkiest, Howell Mountain wines I've ever tasted. In fact, in the context of the vintage, it is one of the most integrated and supply 2006 Cabernets, period! Like some other recent successes such as Seven Stones, Futo Family and others, this wine is very big but finely tuned: wonderfully integrated and deep, with aromas and flavors of violets, minerals, black cherry, plums, and a touch of red fruits such as pomegranate or cranberry. The oak is present but remarkably soaked up by the richness of the wine. Very supple and soft tannins, long and complex finish. Great stuff.
To summarize, a top-notch project with a bright future, made by people who care and have the resources to do it right. Check out the website at
http://www.arkenstonevineyards.com/ (might be under construction still) and sign up!
--- Stefan
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