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A few of us strolled over to Go Fish here in St. Helena yesterday to taste through a prepossessing panoply of current release wines from the one and only Ernst Loosen, Dr. Ernst Loosen that is. We cruised across fourteen wines while eagerly indulging in the ever-flowing assortment of wasabi-cream topped crabcakes, nori-rolled tuna hand wraps, and pepper-crusted shrimp (spicy!) in between sips. Ernst was amicable and down to earth as he mingled with the crowd and graced us with an amusing anecdote about his woes with old Napoleonic law within the steep, four-acre Erdener Pralat vineyard, of which he owns 1.5 acres. The other 2.5 acres are divvied up between 18 different owners!It was a refreshing afternoon with all that Riesling in the room. And after deciphering my own cryptic chicken scratch, I leave you with notes from some of my personal favs:
Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trocken ‘Alte Reben’ 2006 An early favorite for us, this wine put on a show for our nostrils with perfume, lilac, slate, cilantro and lime notes. It was complex and racy in the mouth with slate, smoke, minerals, white peach, white pepper, honeysuckle with a slightly alkaline finish.
Dr. Loosen Riesling “Dr. L” 2007 The lowest-end of the Dr. Loosen line, this was a simple but pleasing effort. The initial smell was of bubble-gummy fruit that opened a bit and followed with a hint of fresh cut grass. In the mouth, it was well rounded, with flavors of sweet apple, orange juice, and a dry, apple skin finish.
Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett 2007 The grapes that graced previous vintages of this wine were sourced from a vineyard directly along the bank of the Mosel. However, due to the rising climate, they have since begun making this wine using grapes from numerous vineyard sights higher up the hill, reserving the lower riverside vines for the single vineyard Kabinett offering. That stated, I loved this wine, even more so than the single-vineyard. It had a very fragrant nose of grapefruit, melon, banana, crap apple, and crushed runts (the candy). It was voluptuous on the palate, loaded with fruit salad, whipped cream, white pepper, and a long mineral laden finish. Delicious.
Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2007 The single-vineyard Kabinett I spoke of. It’s possible that I could’ve mistaken this for a glass of Tropicana OJ if smelled blind (which isn’t a bad thing for me). There was also a touch of grass on the nose. My tongue was touched with crispy acidity, apple, lemon, white flowers and a mineral zing! that zipped about. While delicious, I found myself enjoying the previous Kabinett a bit more.
Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2005 Two of us immediately agreed that the smell here had a strong resemblance to that of Cascade (the powdered dishwasher detergent)…but in a good way…? I was intrigued by the nose that further showed aromas of sour sugar and lemon-lime soda. Creamy lime enveloped my taste buds and opened the door for apple, pear, and stone flavors finished off by a nice, brisk acidity.
Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese 2006 A bright and generous nose of orange, pineapple, white flowers, guava, and potpourri. This wine was a sexy, viscous, sweet and succulent concoction of honey, dried apricot, peach, and clementine with a nice mineral stream running through it. The finish was fine and long with layers of pear and candied apple. I would love to taste this wine ten years from now, as it should have so much more to offer in the future.
Dr. Loosen Estate Riesling “BA” 2006 I’d be happy to sit and do nothing but smell this wine for hours. Hops, spearmint, apricot, flowers, pine, and more. A touch lighter than the Erdener Pralat, its nuances of apricot, peach, sweet honeysuckle and caramel-apple gracefully danced along the palate leading into a long mineral-laced finish.
All in all it was a great showing from Dr. Loosen. And with all of the wines being so young, I hope to taste many of them a few years down the road, as while they are a touch tight knit and stingy right now, they should become real beauties in time.
- Brendan
Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Trocken ‘Alte Reben’ 2006 An early favorite for us, this wine put on a show for our nostrils with perfume, lilac, slate, cilantro and lime notes. It was complex and racy in the mouth with slate, smoke, minerals, white peach, white pepper, honeysuckle with a slightly alkaline finish.
Dr. Loosen Riesling “Dr. L” 2007 The lowest-end of the Dr. Loosen line, this was a simple but pleasing effort. The initial smell was of bubble-gummy fruit that opened a bit and followed with a hint of fresh cut grass. In the mouth, it was well rounded, with flavors of sweet apple, orange juice, and a dry, apple skin finish.
Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett 2007 The grapes that graced previous vintages of this wine were sourced from a vineyard directly along the bank of the Mosel. However, due to the rising climate, they have since begun making this wine using grapes from numerous vineyard sights higher up the hill, reserving the lower riverside vines for the single vineyard Kabinett offering. That stated, I loved this wine, even more so than the single-vineyard. It had a very fragrant nose of grapefruit, melon, banana, crap apple, and crushed runts (the candy). It was voluptuous on the palate, loaded with fruit salad, whipped cream, white pepper, and a long mineral laden finish. Delicious.
Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett 2007 The single-vineyard Kabinett I spoke of. It’s possible that I could’ve mistaken this for a glass of Tropicana OJ if smelled blind (which isn’t a bad thing for me). There was also a touch of grass on the nose. My tongue was touched with crispy acidity, apple, lemon, white flowers and a mineral zing! that zipped about. While delicious, I found myself enjoying the previous Kabinett a bit more.
Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2005 Two of us immediately agreed that the smell here had a strong resemblance to that of Cascade (the powdered dishwasher detergent)…but in a good way…? I was intrigued by the nose that further showed aromas of sour sugar and lemon-lime soda. Creamy lime enveloped my taste buds and opened the door for apple, pear, and stone flavors finished off by a nice, brisk acidity.
Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese 2006 A bright and generous nose of orange, pineapple, white flowers, guava, and potpourri. This wine was a sexy, viscous, sweet and succulent concoction of honey, dried apricot, peach, and clementine with a nice mineral stream running through it. The finish was fine and long with layers of pear and candied apple. I would love to taste this wine ten years from now, as it should have so much more to offer in the future.
Dr. Loosen Estate Riesling “BA” 2006 I’d be happy to sit and do nothing but smell this wine for hours. Hops, spearmint, apricot, flowers, pine, and more. A touch lighter than the Erdener Pralat, its nuances of apricot, peach, sweet honeysuckle and caramel-apple gracefully danced along the palate leading into a long mineral-laced finish.
All in all it was a great showing from Dr. Loosen. And with all of the wines being so young, I hope to taste many of them a few years down the road, as while they are a touch tight knit and stingy right now, they should become real beauties in time.
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